China - September/October 2005
Introduction
This is the diary of a 3-week trip to China which started on 15
September 2005 and ended on 4 October 2005. We went with
Bill and Mary. The itinerary was devised by Jane
and Mary after consultation with the Lonely Planet and Rough
Guide. It was organised by Lily, a Chinese guide we'd
first met in 2001, and her mentor Frank who lives in Guilin,
the same city as Lily. Jane booked the return flight to
Shanghai and Mary booked a return flight to Hong Kong.
The rest was left to Lily. The cost of the trip,
excluding the return flights, was approximately £1750 per
person. The rate of exchange was £1 = 14 Yuan (RMB)
or $1 = 8 Yuan. Here is the final
itinerary sent by Lily via email to Jane and Mary, and
here is a map showing the route
taken.
Briefly, here's how we spent each day:
-
Thursday,
September 15 - Flight to Shanghai
-
Friday, September
16 - Shanghai
-
Saturday,
September 17 - Shanghai to Xiamen
-
Sunday,
September 18 - Gulangyu Island
-
Monday,
September 19 - Xiamen to Hangzhou
-
Tuesday,
September 20 - West Lake and Song Park
-
Wednesday,
September 21 - Shaoxing
-
Thursday,
September 22 - Chengdu
-
Friday,
September 23 - Huanglong Scenic Area
-
Saturday,
September 24 - Jiuzhaigou Scenic Area
-
Sunday,
September 25 - Down the river MinJian to Wolong
-
Monday,
September 26 - Wolong Panda Reserve and Dujiangyan
Irrigation Project
-
Tuesday,
September 27 - Emeishan
-
Wednesday,
September 28 - Grand Buddha at Leshan
-
Thursday,
September 29 - Chengdu to Kunming
-
Friday,
September 30 - Stone Forest, Kunming
-
Saturday,
October 1 - Kunming to Guilin
-
Sunday,
October 2 - Gingko Forest
-
Monday, October 3
- Ling canal
-
Tuesday,
October 4 - Returning home
So now read on ...
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Thursday, September
15 - Flight to Shanghai
Bill drove us to Heathrow. We arrived in Shanghai
(more...)
after an 11-hour flight from Heathrow using BA and found our
way, with the help of an airport guide, to the Magnetic
Levitation railway terminal. We paid our 50 Yuan each for the 25 km ride to Long Yang Lu
Station. It took just over 10 minutes and reached a
maximum speed of 430
km per hour. It was amazingly quick and smooth.
The taxi to the Peace hotel from the 'maglev' terminus was
probably a rip-off as it cost 250 Yuan. We got our
flight tickets to Xiamen from the concierge. We got some
money out of a local ATM and bought 3 bottles of Tsing Tao beer
and 2 bottles of water (16 Yuan). After a short
rest we walked down the Nanjing Road to the Renmin
Square. It was very hot and humid. People spit in
China. They also smoke more and few places ban smoking.
There is a lot of hooting on the roads usually to
indicate to the vehicle ahead or to the side that it should
make way for the hooting vehicle. We found our way to the
Shanghai Museum
which was about to close so we did not go in. We walked
back to the hotel and bought tickets for the Friday night's
performance by the Shanghai Acrobatic Troupe at the Grand
Theatre. We ate our evening meal at the Peace hotel - a
somewhat expensive meal consisting of squid and grouper fish
but it was very tasty.
Friday, September 16 - Shanghai
Had a typical Chinese breakfast at the hotel and then
caught the 37 bus to the Renmin Square ( 6 Yuan each) and walked to the
modern Shanghai Museum (
more...) where we spent several hours. Golf
appears to have been played in the 15th century in China. We
thought the rooms containing the Minorities exhibits and the
furniture of the Ming Dynasty were the most enjoyable. We
took a taxi to the Yu Yuan Gardens
(
more...). The gardens were attractive with lots of
old buildings but it was all very busy, hot and humid. We
had a drink outside the garadens and took a taxi back to our
hotel where we rested a while. At 5.30pm we ate our evening
meal - sliced pork and cabbage, chicken and cashew nuts,
sautéed beans, and fried rice. We took a taxi to
the theatre and watched an excellent
acrobatic display, the grand finale being four motor
cyclists in a
giant steel mesh ball. We walked back to the hotel
admiring the neon
lights on the skyscrapers.
Saturday, September 17 - Shanghai
to Xiamen
We awoke at 5am and checked out, picking up our breakfast
boxes. We took a taxi to the domestic airport and had to
wait for the desks to open at 6am. We checked in and made
our way to gate A3 where we ate our breakfast - a couple
of hard boiled eggs, a ham sandwich and a can of Coke. We
flew to Xiamen (more...)
and were met by Julia and driven in a mini-bus to our hotel which was
said to be the best on the island and overlooked Gulangyu Island.
We had a zizz and waited for Bill and Mary to arrive which they
did at about 1pm. We walked around the streets and along
the sea front. We had a wonderful evening meal at the top
of the hotel - octopus and jellied fish with chilli sauce, dove
including head, crab with coconut, noodles, asparagus. We
walked along the sea front to help the digestion and then
retired to bed.
Sunday, September 18 - Gulangyu Island
We packed just sufficient for a one night stay on Gulangyu
Island (
more...). Julia
came at 8am and we walked to the ferry with our light
luggage. The rest of the luggage we left in the
hotel. The ferry was only a short walk from the hotel
but involved crossing a dual carriageway at a zebra
crossing. Now it appears in China that traffic does not
stop at a zebra crossing but there seems to be an unwritten
agreement that pedestrians can weave amongst the traffic and
will not normally be knocked over. We gave way to fast
moving coaches and other heavy vehicles. We crossed the
short stretch of water, sitting in seats on the upper
deck. At the dock we got onto a
6-seater electric cart - a stretched version of a golf
cart. Cars and trucks are forbidden on the island. We
were driven around the island to the Marine Garden Hotel and
had a wonderful room with a sea view. The carpet was a
bit grubby but apart from that the room was clean and just like
any other hotel room. We walked around and climbed up the
a lot of steps to reach the Sunlight
Rock at 92.7
metres above sea level. It was 36C and very humid but
the views were magnificent. We took a cable car to
an aviary where there were collections of peacock, pigeons,
pheasant and parrots - a bit disappointing really. We
returned, via a tea
shop, to the hotel and had lunch - Mao's pork (chunks of
pork skin and fat marinated in some sort of sugary solution
rendering it partly caramelised), scallops, soup, tongue,
noodles - all very tasty. After a short break to recover
from post-prandial torpor we took a cart to the Shuzhuang
Gardens which were very pretty. We visited a piano museum
where one of the attendants played a short European piece on a
piano. Jane took herself back to the hotel via a cart
whilst the rest of the party visited an organ museum above
which were housed all the gifts to Xiamen from foreign
dignitaries including a Davy miners lamp from the Mayor of
Cardiff. We wandered back to the hotel via a short stop
at a cafe to drink beer and a visit to a pearl shop. We
had a good evening meal with a variation of Mao's pork, pan
fried fish, various meat dishes and soup. Some of us
wandered down the streets and had another beer. With our
breakfast tokens we were given moon cakes, it being the mid
Autumn festival.
Monday, September 19 - Xiamen to
Hangzhou
During breakfast Julia joined us and we all said 'shung ree
kwai ler' to her as it was her 24th birthday having just learnt
how to say it from a waitress. We walked to the ferry and
returned to Xiamen where we collected our luggage and boarded
the mini-bus. We drove off northwards along the ring road
and stopped at the Hulishan Fortress where we saw some petrified trees,
the largest
cannon in the world and a collection of armour. We
visited a Buddhist
temple and ate a very good vegetarian meal in a nearby
restaurant. We then drove across a mainland bridge and
visited Jimei
(
more...) and the school founded by Chen Jiageng (aka
Tan
Kah Kee) who built a number of schools and a university
around Xiamen. As we had time to spare before the flight we
were taken to a shopping mall where we bought Graham a shirt
and had some beer in a fast food cafe. At 3pm we flew to
Hangzhou (more...).
We were met by Lily (a different
one from the one from Guilin) and Mr Shi and driven to a
tourist restaurant where we sat next to a table of Chinese
Canadians. We had more belly of pork but this time
wrapped in lotus leaves, fried fish, pak choi and mushrooms,
small aubergines, and rice. We were taken to the Dahua
Hotel where we had a standard room with twin beds but there was
no free water and no fridge. The TV showed only Chinese
programmes.
Tuesday, September 20 - West Lake and Song
Park
Breakfast was different from the previous hotels and very
Chinese - hot orange squash, lots of dim sum and left over moon
cakes. At 9am we set off to the West Lake (
more...) where it was very busy and hot. We got on a
boat and had a tour of the pretty lake having learned
of tales of the broken bridge which appears so when the snow
melts on its middle. We walked around one of the gardens
and then off to the Dragon Well tea
plantation and shops. We bought some Oolong
tea. We had lunch at a nearby restaurant and then visited
the very large Buddhist temple of Lingyin
(
more...). We got back to the hotel and had a short
rest before being driven to Song Park - a mock Song
village with people dressed in period costume. We crossed
a cable bridge which Lily jumped up and down on to make it
swing and make her very giggly. After this we called all
similar constructions "Lily
bridges". After touring the park we saw a really good
show in the park's theatre - lots of dancing, a bit
of contortionism, waterfalls and laser lighting. This was
an extra attraction suggested by Lily and was well worth the
150 Yuan entry
fee. We were driven to the Marco Polo hotel for our
evening meal where we had some more aubergines, pak choi and
mushrooms, chicken and cucumber. Dessert as usual was
water melon. Where can we eat the specialities of
Hangzhou? It was still hot and humid.
Wednesday, September 21 - Shaoxing
Up early and off to Shaoxing (
more...). On the way we passed amazing farmers'
properties with drying rooms on top of the four storey
buildings. At Shaoxing we made our way to the Beijing - Hangzhou
canal alongside of which is the East Lake (
more...) where we got into two black canopied
boats driven by ladies using both their hands and feet to
move the oars. The East Lake was formed from a stone quarry
which was used in the Qin dynasty to supply stone for the Great
Wall. We then drove to the Yu Wang temple at the
bottom of a hill on which stands a huge statue to Yu
Wang. Whilst Jane wandered around the temple the rest of
the party climbed the 1000 or so steps up to the statue from
where there is a panoramic view of Shaoxing - well worth the
climb. After descending we went round the temple and then
drove to the Orchid Pavilion
(
more...)to see beautiful examples of calligraphy. At
5:30 we got back to the hotel.
Thursday, September 22 - Chengdu
We left early for the airport and a flight to Chengdu (more...).
We were met by Mouse
(a male guide) and a minibus. We visited the Du Fu temple dedicated
to the writer where there was a good exhibition about his
writings and a rebuilt thatched
cottage. Most temples have been rebuilt over the
years as wood rots. After this we visited the
Wuhou Temple dedicated to Wuhou where he is reputed to be
buried in a large circular mound now covered with trees.
We had a standard Cantonese evening
meal and finished off the whisky provided by Bill and
Mary. There seems to be a permanent fog over Chengdu as
it is situated in the bowl of surrounding mountains.
Here is a map of Sichuan
Province showing the places we travelled to around Chengdu..
Friday, September 23 - Huanglong Scenic
Area
We were driven to the old airport of Chengdu where we learnt
that the plane was delayed so we were each given a packed hot
lunch and a bottle of water which we ate in the waiting
area. We took off at about 1.30pm and landed high on a
runway carved out of the mountainside at the Jiu-Huang
Airport (opened 2003). We were met by Terry who told
us that the mini-bus had not arrived. We got into a pair
of taxis and drove to Huanglong (
more...). On the way we stopped at a pass in the mountains to
admire the
view and be approached by a group of Tibetans. We
arrived at the HuaLong Hotel where we quickly unpacked and
walked with Terry up the nearby scenic area for two hours to a
height of 3700
metres, a climb of 700 metres. The scenery
was unbelievable - lots of ponds and
waterfalls where
all the ponds and lakes were of different colours. The
lake at the top
had five colours of water in it. Jane got halfway up and
took a sedan
chair to the summit. Whilst we were descending it got
dark. Fortunately Jane's mobile phone had a torch in it
and was able to light the way
down. The altitude affected both Jane and Graham.
Saturday, September 24 - Jiuzhaigou Scenic
Area
After breakfast we packed and learnt that our mini-bus had a
puncture. We hung around for a bit and finally got in
another mini-bus together with our mini-bus driver and the
punctured wheel. We drove to the town near the airport
and got into two taxis which were to take us to Jiuzhaigou
(
more...). Halfway our taxi stopped and we were asked
to get out and transfer to another taxi which had been stopped
by our taxi driver - all very odd. We were driven to the
Jiu Zhai Paradise hotel. It was almost as large as a Las
Vegas hotel with a large and high glass roofed lobby containing
ponds with swans, ducks and fish. It resembled part of
the Qiang
village we had passed on the way. Our rooms were not
ready so we were driven to the Jiuzhaigou scenic area (
more...). It was raining. We left some of our
belongings in a visitor centre shop and clambered onto a park
bus with Terry who suggested we sat on the left side to get the
best view. We passed several lakes (Lower
Seasonal Lake, Dragon Lake, Rhinoceros Lake) and Tibetan
hamlets and arrived at the bus station and went into the
restaurant where we had a buffet lunch with thousands of
others. After lunch we walked to a second bus station and
got on a bus for a ten minute ride up the mountain. We
got off and viewed a lake and then strolled down a plank
walk to a five
coloured lake. It was beautiful. We met a young
Chinese student who had been studying law at Newcastle
University. We walked on and got a bus to Peacock
Lake. We saw Panda
Lake and a coach load of Tai Chi Australians. We walked
along another plank walk to the Pearl
Shoal waterfall which was majestic. We then walked
further and caught a bus back to the visitor centre where our
driver and his repaired minibus was waiting in a nearby car
park. We were taken back to the hotel and allocated
rooms. We had a good buffet meal but the extra beer cost
25 Yuan a bottle -
the most expensive beer we were to have. It usually cost
us 10 Yuan for a
bottle of beer - "ee peng pee joe".
Sunday, September 25 - Down the river
MinJian to Wolong
We left at 8am to drive the 400 km to the Wolong Panda
Hotel. Our first stop was at a Tibetan trinket shop in
the town below the airport. We bought two jadeite balls
for Graham and a necklace for Jane. We followed the
Minjian river from its source down to Mao Xian. On the
way we stopped for petrol, to admire white yaks and buy some
more trinkets
and hot chestnuts. The views down the valley were
very picturesque. We stopped at Mao Xian for
lunch. It was a good lunch - duck, fish with bones,
chicken and cashew, pork and mushrooms, soup, root vegetables
and copious tea. Back in the mini-bus through a poor
agricultural area though a new road was being built - pillars
and tunnels already constructed. We turned off the main
road and were taken 35
km to the Panda hotel. The road was bordered by lots
of cabbage
patches and bamboo. The government gives grants for
growing cabbages and not for sweet corn. The room at the
Panda hotel had a double bed and a bath and was very well
appointed. The driver and Terry joined us for dinner which
was tasty though mild except for a spicy hot soup. Terry
announced that the driver would be returning to Chengdu that
evening.
Monday, September 26 - Wolong Panda Reserve and Dujiangyan
Irrigation Project
We met our new driver, Mr Cai, and set off at 8am to visit the
Panda reserve (
more...) - it was fantastic and there was nobody there
except the staff. It was drizzling when we arrived.
The pandas were kept in some zoo like enclosures and also
allowed to roam around walled wooded 1-acre plots on the
hillside. We saw month old pandas in incubators,
child pandas in a playground,
pandas up a tree and a panda
posing in a sitting position eating bamboo. We were
driven back to the main road and on towards Dujiangyan.
On the way we got stuck in a traffic jam near where they are
going to build a large dam. They were building a large
expressway across a valley. It gave us a chance to get
out and stretch our legs. We had lunch at a restaurant in
Dujiangyan which overlooked a statue
of the person who first constructed the Dujiangyan
Irrigation Project (
more...). After lunch we were driven up
a nearby hill where we parked and walked down through a
Taoist temple, and walked over a Lily
bridge to the island where the Dujiangyan Irrigation
Project was constructed in 256 BC for the purpose of providing
water to the surrounding area. We walked along to the end
of the island and crossed via another Lily bridge to the
mainland where we were met by our driver. We then drove
to a brocade shop in Chengdu where two girls demonstrated how
they made the intricate patterns in the brocade. We then
went to a restaurant for a Chengdu
hot pot. We ate lamb, beef, duck tongues (not worth
the effort), pork throat (very rubbery), goose stomach (more
rubber), quails eggs, eels, fish, mushrooms, greens and pigs
brains (very good). We rushed off to a theatre to watch a
performance of the Sichuan
Opera which was very good and entertaining. Finally
we got to our hotel at 10pm very tired but happy.
Tuesday, September 27 -
Emeishan
We set off at 8am, after leaving two bags at the hotel, for
Emeishan (
more...). On the way we stopped for petrol and Terry
bought us dried pumpkin seeds in green tea - an interesting but
pleasant flavour. We got to the hotel and had
lunch
at 11.30am in a small room all on our own - fish, chicken and
greens. We walked to the bus station next to the hotel
and got a bus to a cable car
station where tickets were purchased - reduced fees for
Bill and Graham. At the end of the ride we walked up to a
temple where a very large gold
Buddha sat on a 60 ton white elephant. We were unable
to make the frogs in a pond sing by clapping our hands.
As the mountain was shrouded in fog we walked down a path
passed various stalls selling trinkets, vegetables, mushrooms and
monkey food. Jane bought a bead necklace for
1 Yuan from an elderly
lady. We branched off the path to walk along a river bed
to the monkey area where we saw a number of monkeys scampering
around. We walked over two Lily bridges and it started to
rain. On the way down Jane successfully bartered for a
set of bamboo table and chairs which cost her all of
15 Yuan - not really
surprising as they were miniatures. We took a bus back to
the hotel where we arrived at 6.05pm tired out. We were
driven to a snack street in Emeishan where we had a table in
one of the local restaurants under a blue, red and white
tarpaulin. We had another hot pot with skewered duck tongues,
gizzards and fish skin. We also had crayfish and
blood. It was a jolly good meal with beer à
volonté.
Wednesday, September 28 - Grand Buddha at
Leshan
Again up early and left at 8am for a 40min drive to Leshan (
more...). We walked up to the top of the park where
the Buddha via the North gate visiting a pagoda dedicated to
Linbao, well
known in Chinese literature. We visited a temple
dedicated to the monk, Master Haitong, who started the carving
with the head in 713 AD but died before it was completed.
The Buddha is
71 metres tall, the
largest in China, and was built to calm the waters at the
confluence of the three rivers at its feet. Jane stayed at the
top whilst the rest of the party
climbed down the 73
metres using the stairs hugging the cliff face. The
cliff walkers joined Jane at the top and we ambled out of the
park via the East gate and to a boat
which took us on the Minjiang river to the Buddha for a Kodak
opportunity. We were driven back to a health food
restaurant in Chengdu where we ate lots of 'healthy'
food. We left at 3pm to go to the station where
Bill and
Mary were put on the overnight train
to Kunming. Jane and Graham were driven to a computer
shop street where two memory cards were bought for Bill with
some bartering help from Terry - 700 Yuan for a 256K and a 1G
card. Jane and Graham returned to the Jingjang Hotel
where they had an evening meal.
Thursday, September 29 - Chengdu to
Kunming
We were picked up at 7am and taken to the new airport of
Chengdu, next to the old airport. When we arrived at
Kunming (more...)
there was no guide for us but Tessy turned up five minutes
late. We were driven to the Jinjiang Hotel and met Bill
and Mary at 12.30pm. We had lunch in the Shanghai
restaurant at the hotel where beer cost 18 Yuan. The meal was
standard Cantonese fare. We were driven to the West Hill,
passed a smelly
green lake and a new road under construction. It was
misty, grey and drizzling. We got a ski chair lift
up
the hill and walked to the Dragon Gate temple. On the
way down Jane bought a teapot. We rode in a golf cart
back to the car park but would have preferred to have
walked. We had to pay for the ski lift and the golf
cart. We had dinner in the same
Shanghai restaurant and it was a similar bland Cantonese
meal. We asked Tessy to arrange for us to eat the local
speciality of 'Across the Bridge Noodles'. Reluctantly
she agreed to try and arrange it.
Friday, September 30 - Stone
Forest, Kunming
We left at 9am and the driver got stopped for turning right
into a street which was prohibited. According to Tessy he
would be fined 200
Yuan. On the journey to the Stone Forest it was
noticed that the driver paddled the accelerator pedal thus
causing the mini-bus to go quickly for a bit and then
immediately slow down when he took his foot off the pedal -
what a jerk. Tessy was unable to get the driver to change
his foot movements. The scenery was interesting with lots
of eucalyptus
trees and Yi shrines by the side of the road. The
Stone Forest (
more...) was very interesting. The stones were
actually limestone karsts and not from petriefied trees as we
had originally thought.. We walked around the major
forest which was like an open air cave and then around the minor
forest where the stone outcrops were much shorter. We
ate very good Chinese food in a tourist restaurant and then
drove back to the hotel. On the way we stopped at a golf
shop and bought 2 putters and a handbag. We saw the
narrow
gauge railway (1
metre) which linked Kunming with Hanoi. We stopped at
a shopping area and bought some dried mushrooms. When we
got back to the hotel Jane bought another bag for 35 Yuan to carry all the
souvenirs she had bought. Tessy had arranged for us to go
to a show and eat 'Across the Bridge Noodles'. It cost us
130 Yuan each.
We were driven to the JixinYuan restaurant where we had a table
on the balcony from which we could watch the minority
dancing show called the 'Jixin Epulary Dance of China'
whilst eating lots of dishes with wonderful flavours including
the
speciality noodles and steam pot chicken, another local
speciality. The progamme we were given mentioned the
erotic dance performed at the Red Millhouse in Paris so some of
us were a liitle disappinted with what we saw on the floor
below. Anyway it was a very good evening and well worth
the extra money.
Saturday, October 1 - Kunming to
Guilin
We checked out at 10am and were driven to the bird and flower
market where we wandered around the stall lined
streets. We had lunch and were then taken to the airport
where we said goodbye to Bill and Mary who were flying to Hong
Kong. Jane and Graham had a four hour wait for the flight
to Guilin. In the waiting we met a young Australian,
Martin Burgess, who was going to hitchhike to Tibet at the
start of a two year tour. Good luck to him. We
arrived at Guilin (more...)
to be met by Lily
and her husband,
Tang. Lily was very excited at meeting us again and
gave Jane a white gold and pearl necklace and Graham a silk
tie. We were taken in a mini-bus to the Bravo Hotel where
we had a large double bed on the ninth floor. It was 33C
and humid. Tang drove us in Lily's company car, a Geely
(similar to a Saxo), which she'd borrowed for two days even
though she could not drive. We drove over Liberation
Bridge passed the hotel where we stayed in 2001 and along the
river to an
eating place (not a restaurant) on the banks of the
river. We sat in plastic seats at a table on the pebbles
at the side of the river. The sets of crockery was
wrapped in polythene - a government regulation for this type of
eating place. There was a gas ring in the middle of the
table. We started with pumpkin seeds and very small
snails. A hot pot containing fish and tofu was brought to
the table. We ate cakes made by frying glutinous
rice and vegetables which we dipped in a chilli
sauce. The occasional rocket went off in the background
as it was the 56th anniversary of the founding of New
China. After the fish hot pot we had fish soup with large
pieces of fish and marrow. We got back to the hotel at
11pm.
i
Sunday, October 2 - Gingko Forest
We had breakfast at the hotel in a Western restaurant devoid of
chopsticks. At 9am we met Frank Li, Lily's mentor and the
owner of the travel agency. Frank spoke very good English
which he learnt from a Linguaphone course eighteen years
ago. Frank drove us in his car manufactured by
the Harbin Aeroplane Factory to the village of Da Xu (
more...) whilst Tang followed in the Geely. We walked
along the
ancient streets and visited a rice wine
brewing house where the vats of wine matured in porcelain
vats buried in the back garden. Frank bought us a
small bottle of herb impregnated rice wine. We walked
over a bridge to a part of the village kept in the style of the
1920's and 1930's. We drove through the countryside
passed fields of sugar cane (purple bamboo according to
Frank). We arrived at a village set in a forest of gingko
trees not far from Hai Yang. We walked amongst the
trees, relieved ourselves in the public toilet and made our way
to the house of the brother of the head of the village.
We sat on low chairs around a round table with a gas ring in
its centre and ate oil
tea and a wok of duck and gingko
seeds with tarot root and sweet potatoes all washed
down with beer. We returned the hotel for a short
rest. We were picked up at 6pm and whisked off in two
cars to a vegetarian meal in the Longze Tea House and
Restaurant. Many beautiful vegetarian
dishes were brought to the table including ying-yang
soup. After eating most of the dishes Lily disappeared
and returned with a waitress carrying dishes of duck, skewered
squid and egg fried rice. They'd played another joke on
us. After the meal Frank left us and the rest of us went
to the Lijiang
Theatre to see a show depicting dances from Yao and Zhang
minorities set against a background of the Dragon Spine
Mountain (
more...). It was very good and reminded us of our trip to
the mountain in 2001. There were even two women who undid
and rolled up their toe
length hair. We got back to the hotel at 10pm.
Monday, October 3 - Ling canal
We were picked up at 10am all packed and checked out. The
two cars set out for the Ling canal (more...)
just North of Xing'An. On the way Frank regaled us
with a history lesson about the Long March and the Red
Army. It was fascinating. Frank told us he did a
lot of reading in the smallest room in his home. How he
remembered all those dates we do not know. The Ling canal system was
built in the Qin dynasty at the same time the Great Wall and
the Dujiangyan Irrigation Project. It joined the north
flowing Xiang river with the south flowing Li river and thus
provided a passage for defenders of the Xi'An empire to the
south of China. At the entrance to the site we had
deep fried
skewered fish and crabs washed down with cold chrysanthemum
tea. We visited a museum containing the remains of US
aeroplanes which had crashed in the nearby mountains in 1945
but which were only discovered in 1986. We crossed from
the canal bank to the ploughshare section of the system on a
covered
punt. We then drove back to north Guilin and had
lunch in a local
restaurant where we ate masses of thinly cut lamb in a hot
pot followed by lamb skin (very tough) and lamb's blood (not as good
as pig's blood). As we had some time to spare we drove to
see the 10000 li
bridge at
Xing'An on the Ling canal. It was called that as that is
the distance it is from the ancient capital of Xi'An. We
returned to the hotel and said goodbye to Frank. The four
of us then got into a minibus and were driven to the
airport. On the journey we announced to Lily's husband,
Tang Jian, that as he spoke English much better than we speak
Mandarin, he should have an English given name so we started to
call him Jim which he was happy to be known as. It was
sad saying goodbye to Lily and Jim who were on a later flight
to Chongqing which they had delayed by a couple of days in
order to meet us. It was a bit of a bumpy ride to
Shanghai where we arrived at the Peace Hotel via a taxi
(50 Yuan) at about
10pm so it was straight to bed after Graham had bought a
3.30 Yuan bottle of
Tsing Tao beer at a local store.
Tuesday, October 4
- Returning home
We got up early, ate breakfast and checked out. We left
the hotel at 7am and took a taxi straight to the Pudong
airport. We think we were ripped off as it cost
370 Yuan and the
hotel had said it would cost 150-180 Yuan. We took off
on time at 11am and were met by Bill at Heathrow at 4pm.
We drove home having had a wonderful trip to China. The
next trip to China is now in its planning stage.